Day 3: Lighthouse hunting, secret routes, and the Atlantic chill!

It had been quite a while since I last went camping, and it definitely showed! My night under the tent wasn’t exactly the most restful. Between tossing and turning, my sleeping pad sliding around, and that annoying feeling of being too hot then too cold... long story short, my sleep was pretty broken. And that’s not even counting the infamous mosquito hunt once all the lights were out. There is always that one mosquito that comes buzzing right around your ear!

When the alarm went off at 6:00 AM, it was definitely too early. I snoozed it until 6:30 AM, but I didn't even wait for the second alarm to get up. One thought kept me highly motivated: the nice, hot coffee I was going to brew while packing up camp. And just like that, the breakfast routine took over again.

Once the Africa Twin was loaded up and ready to roll, I set course for the Nova Scotia coast. It was a beautiful succession of back roads—some in better shape than others—twisting through villages, fields, and the ocean.

To break up my day, I looked up lighthouses on Google Maps. The app found one not too far from my location. So, I took a detour, which completely threw off my second GPS (a TomTom that holds the entire official route of my adventure!). Following Google's directions, I ended up on a "road"—if you can even call it a road—that I never could have taken without a true dual-sport motorcycle. The trail looked exactly like the logging roads from my childhood.

To spice things up, once I reached the end, I realized the lighthouse was actually on private property! I had to turn back, though not before snapping a quick photo from a distance. I didn’t go right up to the monument out of respect for the property lines, but since I was already there, the detour was well worth a look.

I then returned to my original route, much to the relief of my TomTom. While continuing to scan the horizon, I spotted another lighthouse a bit further down! I couldn't pass it up. This one is actually a reconstruction of an old historic lighthouse that had burned down a few years ago, located right on the harbor. It was a superb stop, especially since the heat was still oppressive. The thermometer climbed up to 32°C today. Even though the sun is much more pleasant and safer than the rain, riding in this heat wave with full protective gear remains quite a challenge.

After this break, I tracked down a little coastal road that immediately reminded me of the famous Cabot Trail in Cape Breton. Since I don't have the time to head up there on this trip, this section had absolutely nothing to envy! In some spots, the road was actually more technical, mostly because I had to handle a road surface that left a lot to be desired—looking a whole lot like Quebec roads. A great moment of riding, but a hot one!

As the ribbon of asphalt kept rolling under my tires, I suddenly watched the thermometer plummet down to 22°C. A quick glance at my location explained it: I had just reached the southern coast of Nova Scotia, right on the edge of the Atlantic. Riding became pure bliss again, almost a little chilly after the afternoon furnace.

Following this coastline (which, once again, is very hard to photograph safely due to the lack of shoulders), I finally reached my new campground. Accessing it on a motorcycle requires constant vigilance: the entrance is mostly designed for cars, with a gravel path littered with big bumps and ruts. After a long day in the saddle, this kind of finish always makes things tricky, but once set up, the spot is simply exceptional. I’ll be able to fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the rocks.

Tonight, I’m going to enjoy a peaceful, quiet, and refreshing night. Thank you to everyone for keeping the donations climbing and for riding along with me to beat the disease!

Why am I riding? 🏍️🧡

Canada has one of the highest rates of multiple sclerosis (MS) in the world. This unpredictable neurological disease often strikes young adults, turning their lives upside down overnight. Every single kilometer ridden on the handlebars of my Africa Twin is dedicated to those fighting it. Together, let’s keep research rolling to beat the disease! To cheer me on and make an official donation to MS Canada, click here: 🔗 https://msspwcms.donordrive.com/participants/arreter-la-sp-ca-roule-2026 👊 #RideToStopMS #MSCanada