Day 4: Mystic fog, intense twisties, and Shelburne's legendary welcome!

This morning, after an excellent night's sleep rocked by the sound of the waves and wrapped in nicely cool temperatures, it was time to pack up... but not just yet! The entire landscape was plunged into a thick fog, the outside of the tent was soaking wet, and the humidity had found its way inside. In these conditions, the absolute top priority was a good hot coffee. You have to keep your priorities straight! ☕

If you're going to have a coffee, you might as well take your time. I took advantage of this quiet moment under a shelter to watch the birds scavenging a few seeds left on the ground while planning my day. Finally, it was time to pack: first, the inside of the tent went into its bag on the seat, then the tent itself, which had almost finished drying. Once the bike was loaded, breakfast consisted of just a few nuts. To be honest, I was just monumentally too lazy to dig through my panniers to prepare anything else!

And with that, I took off. First crucial step: don't wipe out in the gravel while pulling onto the road. Mission accomplished!

Next stop: Halifax. The ride went smoothly. Once again, I was riding along the coast, but never right next to it, and always without a single safe spot to pull over and take pictures. It’s a habit by now, especially since the constant traffic meant I always had a vehicle behind me. It was impossible to come to a stop right in the middle of the lane. On the flip side, I have to take my hat off to the drivers here: speed limits and following distances are strictly respected. It is truly appreciated and feels very safe.

Arriving around Dartmouth and Halifax—and honestly, good luck figuring out where one ends and the other begins!—I felt like I was right back in the heart of Montreal: orange cones and construction zones everywhere! Getting through was tedious. Some of the steep streets reminded me of King Street in Sherbrooke. I can confirm that having to do a hill start there, while negotiating a 120-degree turn to catch the next street on a loaded bike, is quite the riding exercise! Basically, crossing the city was a hell of a job.

Once out of the urban zone, I immediately headed back toward the coast. Why choose a long, completely boring straight road when you can have some fun? My goal for the afternoon was Peggy’s Cove, to admire the most photographed lighthouse in Canada. To my surprise, there was an absolute sea of people. It looked like a literal place of pilgrimage! Finding a spot to park the bike in the designated areas turned out to be a puzzle, especially since no vehicles are allowed to park outside the marked zones. I ended up making up my very own parking spot! The lighthouse is beautiful, perched on massive, rounded boulders that give it a unique character. However, with the ambient heat and my gear, I didn’t push my luck enough to rub shoulders with the crowd.

The road to get there offers breathtaking scenery: bays dotted with wild little islands and fishing boats anchored in the distance. It was simply splendid. As for the road heading back north, it is a pure masterpiece for riders, but oh so technical! Between the tight bends, hairpin turns, and a succession of steep climbs and drops, keeping your eyes locked on your line required non-stop concentration. The sign displaying a 50 km/h limit already seemed like a challenge in itself... so I burst out laughing when an 80 km/h sign popped up! If you're a local and know the layout by heart, that's a different story. It reminded me of the days when I used to ride at unmentionable speeds on the back roads of France that I knew like the back of my hand.

Then, the rain joined the trip. I closed all the vents on my riding gear, filled up on gas, and doubled my caution. I had to cut out a tiny portion of the original route, but I refused to skip the coastal road. I seriously questioned it, because under a downpour, this kind of winding route can quickly become "touchy."

The gamble was worth it, though. Even if it was impossible to stop to capture the landscapes, all these images are now etched in my memory, and that’s what matters most. I still managed a quick, saving stop at the foot of a church to try to capture a piece of the scenery for you. I did the best I could! 😉

In total, this day wrapped up with 376 km over 6 hours and 13 minutes of riding. My average speed was 58 km/h, irrefutable proof that it was twisting a whole lot!

I finally arrived at my destination in Shelburne, where I get to sleep right on the wharf, with my feet practically in the water! I am staying at Albert's Inn, a charming little family-run establishment. The owner and her daughter welcomed me with open arms. We had exchanged emails at noon (where there was working cell service, near the lighthouse, remember?) to warn me she was running to pick up her daughter and that I might have to wait a bit. It’s the kind of place that is so warm, where the owner makes herself completely available to answer the slightest question or need. It really makes you want to unpack your bags for good. The town is absolutely beautiful, and this time, I have pictures to show you!

To crown this beautiful day, I couldn't pass up the local seafood. Tonight, I am treating myself to a delicious 7-course meal at the Charlotte Lane Café, located on... Charlotte Lane (creative concept, right?). The dishes are just delicious, and the service is impeccable, provided by truly wonderful hosts. A perfect spot!

Why this trip?

Beyond the scenic views and the riding challenge, every kilometer ridden on the handlebars of my Africa Twin is dedicated to a cause that is deeply close to my heart: the fight against multiple sclerosis. MS is a chronic autoimmune disease that attacks the central nervous system. It disrupts the signals sent by the brain to the rest of the body, which can cause severe fatigue, balance issues, pain, or mobility difficulties. It is an unpredictable disease that often strikes young adults, and Canada has one of the highest rates in the world.

By riding through the provinces, my goal is to raise awareness and fundraise to support research and offer better services to those affected. Every donation you make gives even greater meaning to every twist of my throttle—especially under the rain and the heat!

Thank you all for your incredible solidarity. See you tomorrow!