Day 5: Forced wakeup, chills at Cape Forchu, and a near-disaster parking!

I had originally decided to treat myself to a sleeping-in until 6:30 AM this morning. That was without counting on the guest in the room next door, who woke up with unparalleled enthusiasm around 4:30 or 5:00 AM... Long story short: by 6:00 AM sharp, I was already up, clean, and holding a steaming cup of coffee! The inn's soap smelled so good that there was no way I was going back to bed after my shower. Besides, after only 5.5 hours of sleep, that little boost was welcome. The night was particularly pleasant, infinitely more comfortable than on my camping mattress! After downing a few cookies—yes, you read that right, there were cookies available, pure bliss!—I took off around 7:30 AM. It is definitely much faster when there is no tent to pack up.

I set off right into a thick fog, the daily routine when you sleep on the coast. The upside was that it was much cooler for riding. Since I strictly had to stick to a precise schedule to catch my ferry later, I planned a route with just a tiny bit less coastal roads. Really just a little bit less, just to make sure I saved enough time for sightseeing.

To switch up my habits, the very first goal of the day was... a lighthouse! I know you are deeply surprised. After a brief stretch on a highway—which, by the way, has absolutely nothing to do with our roads in Quebec, let's just say it's much better maintained!—I quickly reconnected with winding back roads where any concept of speed is impossible. Anyway, I am in tourist mode. The combination of the slow pace, the fog, and that great salty sea smell suited me perfectly. Riding so early, the road was completely deserted. I only crossed paths with a few locals and people heading to work.

I was progressing along this road suspended between land and sea when I spotted a rest area equipped with benches, tables, and interpretive signs, all overlooking a piece of the bay. Just a piece, because the rest was entirely drowned in the cotton of the surrounding fog. I took the opportunity to read about the town's founders while eating my usual assortment of nuts. During my break, a gentleman stopped by to show my motorcycle to his little boy. I kind of feel like a real local attraction with my setup!

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After this quick stop, I jumped back on the controls for a short 10 or 12 kilometers to finally reach the Cape Forchu Lighthouse. The place is packed with history (I will share pictures of the informational plaques): shipwrecks there were particularly numerous and violent, and Samuel de Champlain himself got injured there after taking a fall! In one of my photos, you can see a light fog bank stubbornly clinging to the top of the structure. What's wonderful is that the historic panels are scattered all around the site, making for a great walk 😄. I spent about 45 minutes to an hour there, due to the tight ferry schedule. Then I hit the road again, which once more hugged the contours of the coast.

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Passing back by the rest area from my first stop, I pulled over for a second to snap another photo, now that the fog had cleared. And guess what? There was a small lighthouse hidden there that I hadn't even seen earlier!

My eyes kept darting back and forth between the road and the ocean until I reached the famous Bay of Fundy. Once again, opportunities to safely stop for photos were few and far between. Then, suddenly, I spotted fishing boats resting directly on the ground at the bottom of the harbor at low tide. A colleague had asked me for a picture of this phenomenon, and I wanted one too. No one behind me, a "playable" space right next to a small shop... I squeeze the brakes and go to park. The ground SEEMS flat. I deploy the side stand, I start leaning the weight of the bike onto it, except that... the ground isn't coming. The bike leans, leans, keeps leaning... I'm dropping it!

Whoop! Survival reflex, stand it up! But stand it up hard! I can confirm that holding back and pulling up 300 kilos of rolling metal thrown into a tumble doesn't happen on its own. Since the engine was still running and I was straining like crazy to hold it back, my hand gave a massive, involuntary twist of the throttle, making the Africa Twin's engine roar through the entire bay! Past this great moment of loneliness and adrenaline, I wisely went to park a bit further down in front of the shop. 🤣🤣 The gamble was worth it, look at this spectacular view:

Ah yes, just before this little scare, I had stopped to admire the Église Sainte-Marie, which is the largest wooden church in North America. Sadly, it is in a pitiful state. Locals are scrambling to find funds to restore it, but historical heritage suffers heavily from the widespread explosion in the cost of materials and construction.

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Back on the asphalt, I bypassed Digby—where my ferry is waiting for me—to push all the way to Annapolis Royal. This is where a historic fort stands, once the stage for a fierce rivalry between France and England. It literally changed hands 7 times, passing from the French to the English and vice versa! It's completely insane. I took the time to explore the museum thanks to the "A Stronger Canada" program, which opens the doors to Parks Canada facilities for free. Even though I would have gladly paid for my admission ticket, I think this free access to our history and culture for everyone is an excellent government initiative. I spent over an hour and a half there exploring the fort, taking in the scenery, and reading the historical facts. And it was hot! But hey, we are in Canada, trust rules: I simply left my jacket, helmet, and gloves on the bike before wandering off with my backpack (my water supply), riding pants, and boots. Believe me, in 30-degree weather, that's more than enough to break a sweat!

I'll let you admire the beauty of the site:

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I also took the time to relax for a moment on the Queen's Wharf to absorb the unique atmosphere of the place.

For a quick technical anecdote, my main ignition switch—which is currently under a manufacturer recall—is starting to show some signs of weakness. When I switch from the classic Honda display (speed, RPM...) to the Apple CarPlay screen to check Google Maps, the system simply cuts the engine! Charming little electronic bug. Fortunately, the machine did it to me twice in a row while I was safely stopped at a station to fill up on the way back. No bad surprises while riding since, the bug has stayed very quiet.

The end of the day is more conventional: I got back on the bike, retraced my steps toward Digby, and then climbed up to the ferry terminal. It is from right here, comfortably settled in, that I am writing these lines for you while waiting to board. :)

Thank you all for your support, your shares, and your donations for multiple sclerosis research. We keep riding together!

Why am I riding? 🏍️🧡

Canada has one of the highest rates of multiple sclerosis (MS) in the world. This unpredictable neurological disease often strikes young adults, turning their lives upside down overnight. Every single kilometer ridden on the handlebars of my Africa Twin is dedicated to those fighting it. Together, let’s keep research rolling to beat the disease! To cheer me on and make an official donation to MS Canada, click here: 🔗 https://msspwcms.donordrive.com/participants/arreter-la-sp-ca-roule-2026 👊 #RideToStopMS #MSCanada